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Russian Green
The Author finally sees a Russian Summer
By Michael Brohm
After
three trips to the Russian city of Perm, I’d still not seen the Kama
River as anything but a solid sheet of ice. I’d not seen grass, or
leaves on the trees, or the sun after 5pm. I’d traveled there only in
the dead of winter when the temperature can reach 40 below. But this
time I was making the trip in summer.
our
way past small islands, standing tall with white-barked birch. Between
clumps of tall reeds André had rigged long nets across channels where
he knew fsh would be traveling. With the motor off, the boat was rowed
slowly along the net. From the bow André would untangle the fsh trapped
there... perch, carp and sauger. But the biggest prize, the star of the
show, was a 55 kilo (121 pound) catfsh!
The
Kama, named after the Hindu god of love, fows 1100 miles to meet the
Volga River on its way to the Caspian Sea. Like the great expanse of
Russia, it’sa big, wide river. I’d been invited to go fshing with André
and his fshing buddies near the place where I’d ice fshed a few years
earlier. I was anxious to see the river in its liquid state.
Back
at the fsh camp, an old log structure at the river’s edge, the
enormous fsh was carried to a table to be cleaned. Realizing we were
going to eat the fsh then and there made me wonder just how old this
thing must be. (I also wondered how close we were to Chernobyl!) André
used a meat cleaver to chop off the foot-wide head. Gutted and laid
open, he ran his hands under the skin, separating it from the fesh
below. The entrails were gathered and carried far from the camp, as
bears were known to be nearby. The fsh was marinated in a mixture of
mayonnaise, citrus, dill, olive oil and white wine. André, folding it
all together with his hands, skewered the cubes of fsh and laid them
over the coals.
I
was picked up at 4 am, a good time to start a fshing trip, and was told
that I could sleep during the 4 hour drive. “Stupid people and the
roads” is a saying in Russia about what’s wrong with their country.
I’ve not found the people stupid but they are right on about the roads.
There would be no sleeping on this trip. The 200 mile ride was a bone
jarring, teeth rat-
TWO GUYS (l)....Fishing buddies André & An-dré. André (right) was a professional wrestler in Russia.
HOLDING THE FISH...Andre’ with the 55 kilo catfsh, netted in the Kama River, Russia.
tling
shocker on ill conceived, long neglected asphalt. “Pothole” is not a
deep enough word to describe the craters we encountered. (The roads are
much better in winter, the snow and ice acting to level the ride.)
The
big fsh fed all ten of us and none went to waste. We drank fruit juices
alternated with shots of vodka and brandy. After the meal, André sat on
a birch log with his guitar and sang beautiful Russian folk songs.
We
arrived at a small village on the bank of the river around 9 am. Men
sat at an outdoor restaurant under colorful umbrellas drinking beer and
listening to loud Russian rock music. The river is dammed downstream to
provide hydroelectric power and here it looked more like a huge lake
than a river. From across the river came 2 small runabouts. Built in
the 70s, the boats seemed too small for all of us and our gear. There
wasn’t a life jacket in sight.
Although
none of the Russians spoke english, I got that they were asking me,
“What was the biggest fsh that you’ve ever caught, back in America?” I
thought for a moment. Knowing we had just eaten their biggest catch of
55 kilos, I said proudly, “60 Kilos!” Smiling, they knew I was telling
a fsh tale... all fshermen speak the same language.
---MB
Once
out on the water it was heaven. A big, blue Montana-size sky spread out
above. The spray from the bow was warm and clean. We made
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