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Winter in Alaska
By Robert White
Winter
in Alaska , is looked forward to by some. With dread by an equal
number, or just one of those things by most. I like the change of
season and light, granted it is really nice for April to come around
and we can get back on our motorcycles.
How
people equip themselves and deal with winter depends on where you live.
Many that live in "town", and that is somewhat defined as Los Anchorage*, are pretty
casual about decent winter tires and clothing. They do not go outside
except by necessity to go to work or some other activity, then home
again. You hit the auto start from inside so your vehicle is warm when
you get in it. Sometimes you just leave the motor running while going
grocery shopping or something of limited time duration, or all night if
necessary. Fuel injection has been a GREAT help for this.
Cold
weather gear can be divided into two main types, durable industrial,
and yuppy mountaineer with some qradation between the two. I own some of
ber
optic line they installed along the Parks Hwy(roads have numbers, but
residents typically use names for them)towards Fairbanks; the ground was frozen so they could dig a nice narrow slot without the sides caving in. Setting
back to people looking forward to winter, "why?" you might ask?
The main reason is the swamp froze up and you can get around on it. The flat places in Alaska tend towards being a swamp...wet lands if you will. Trans portation gets easier when it freezes up. Need to get building material to your remote cabin site? People usually wait for winter and move it across the ice and snow. The
best thing is for it to get cold enough to freeze the ground and
vari
ous bodies of water before it snows. Once you get the ground solidly frozen, then you need a good base layer of snow, three feet minimum. Ideally, it will then get warm enough for a short time, or even rain a bit to consolidate and settle the base down. Then say at least (-)20F to freeze it in place. With the ground already frozen, the base is more likely to last well. After the base is in place you need regular "play" layers over the top of the base. A both; there is really no reason to be cold as there
is lots of equipment easily available for purchase. Out in rural towns
or the Bush, you will find durable industrial type clothing is mostly
what is worn. It is heavy and not as stylish, but is less expensive, and is warm if you wear enough of it.
Many residents also opt for the insulation regime used by animals like sea mammals and grow a significant layer of fat protecting core areas. This is helped by sloth and diet, and fits nicely under many styles of industrial clothing. This
foot or so of fresh snow about
once a week is nice. There are some problems
with the above scenario; on flat ground or moderate slopes life is wonderful. However on steep slopes danger lurks. The new snow layers do not bond well to the consolidated layers and are prone to ava lanche. Most reasonable peo ple, regardless of their mode of travel (skis, snow machines, dog sleds) recognize and try to avoid avalanche prone ar eas. It is pretty obvious where they are. As mentioned ear lier, there are those that seek may not be unique to the far north.
Los Anchorage is referred to as the
"Banana Belt" by those living further north, or away from the
moderating effects of the Gulf of Alaska. A temperate marine climate
where(-)30F is not common, but(-)20F can be. Down to (-)20F , you can
be somewhat casual about it all, below that you had best be paying
attention.
People do freeze to death, but not all that much. Winter related fatalities are frequently casual errors in
behavior and judgement. Low temperatures make the margin of error less
forgiving. Drink that bottle of liquor and pass out in the snow where
no body spots you and you are likely dead. Snow machine
fatalities can be grouped by ethnicity, anglos tend toward being killed
by the avalanche they kicked off "High Marking" on steep unstable
slopes, and many natives are killed going out and running on the river ice instead of the bumpy shore trail and hit an open lead. Sometimes they plane across the
open water, and sometimes they end up under the ice. Remember, this is
typically in the dark so it is hard to see. Many villages are isolated by distance and harsh conditions and are along rivers and lakes.
Over flow
ice is very odd. How is it possible (you might ask) that there is open
water at (-)50F when the entire world should be frozen solid in
temperatures 80 degrees Fahrenheit lower than freezing? Or even worse, there
is liquid water under a thin layer of ice that you fall through and get
WET, soaked through to the skin. The dynamics of over flow ice is
pretty simple—the ground is frozen, there is an aquifer of some sort
with pressurized water in it that is going to go somewhere, and that
"somewhere" is frequently up. Sometimes you see large mounds of ice
built up layer by layer.
Life/work
continues regardless of temperature, it is frequently more
difficult/time consuming to do some things in the winter, but they get
done. Sometimes things are actually easier in the winter. An example is the fi-
them
out and (apparently) like the rush of trying to out run death, or to
ride the crest down like a surfer on a big wave. Sometimes they die.
But Wait! What about the brief mention of it seriously warming up and raining on the snow?
The weather here is complex and volatile. As I understand it, it has to do with the jet streams moving back and forth; there are web
sites devoted to trying to explain it. I have myself seen it (more than
once) go from (-)20 F to (+)40F in about an hour. Typically with a
heavy rain that lasts forever following the change. That is the classic
weather pattern of Southeast (the panhandle); fortunately less
prevalent here in South Central, and un-common up north.
Urban moose are considered by some to be a problem, I like them myself. Of course I do not live in an area where they are common,
and have not tried to harvest one with my vehicle yet. Hitting a moose
at speed in a yuppy rice burner like I drive is death and/or
dismemberment. It is much safer to harvest one with a rifle, plus you
get to keep it if you harvest one with a rifle legally.
The
Lady Moose(s), being no fools, have hit upon the same line of thought
that many in rural Alaska have. It is a lot nicer to live in town.
There are fewer predator problems. Bears and wolves are unlikely to eat the kids, and there are delicious
things to eat. Vegetable gardens, yummy, fruit trees and even
ornamental landscaping is apparently delicious. In the fall there are the frozen Halloween pumpkins. Some people like the Lady Moose making their area home,
and of course some people do not. In Fairbanks they have an "archery
only" urban moose hunting regime in town that most citizens are fine with. Not sure that would fly down here in Los Anchorage.
Tourism
is a love/hate thing here in Alaska; we like to travel ourselves,
especially in the winter time. The big difference is between independent
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