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More Stories from Early Jackson's Hole
It's
late evening, by a lake in a forest far from highway roar; the
south-west quarter of Yellowstone Park. A pair of swans are cruising
along the far shore. We speak in low tones. We hope that these swans
will bring forth cygnets. We have a proprietary interest; we are humans
alert to the endangered status of those birds; so few of them are still
alive. We want them to be with us as we go into our destiny.
We
turn and walk toward the skimpy marshland that surrounds the lake.
Suddenly the swans are aloft, flying directly toward us. They are big,
heavy birds, boldly white in the dusky air, their beaks completely
black, winging their way in total confidence, as though pegging us as
harmless earthbound creatures. We stand still, hardly believing they
are so low, so near. We hear their wings, and then they sound off,
first one trumpeter, then the other, loud, resonant. A few notes only.
Their low clear voices linger in the forest; notions of human
proprietorship vanish, as though the swans have opened the past from
which their kind came, long ago. Pleistocene and beyond. We were in
those times; our ancestors were there with The Others.
I
remembered that encounter, later; still a kid, when my dad, Olaus, and
my uncle Adolph, escorted an expert from the east with huge field
glasses to a small lake in the far northern regions of Jackson's Hole.
I
didn't realize at the time that he was studying intently the faraway
beaks for sign of Whistling Swan yellow marks. They aren't there. He
lowered the field glasses. "They are Trumpeters!" cried out the bird
expert. He was so excited that he jumped up and down in his puttees. I
was fascinated by the ornithologist's puttees; they reached almost to
his knees, made of shiny leather. Levis were the almost universal
trousers in Jackson's Hole at that time, work-a-day garb for both men
and women.
ment.
I hitchhiked between the Park and the ranch that Olaus and Mardy, Weezy
and Adolph had borrowed money to buy. One day Wallace Beery picked me
up. I told him that I was a "ninety day wonder" and he told me that he
was starring in a movie set in Jackson's Hole. He let me out at Moose
Post Office and I walked the dirt road to the ranch.
The
Spring Gulch ranchers gathered a herd of heifers and calves and a bull
or two and drove them onto National Monument Land. The Teton Park
rangers lined up on the highway and watched. The Spring Gulch ranchers
were serious; everybody had pistols, even Wallace Beery, who had joined
them for the fight that didn't take place. The Spring Gulch ranchers
did not know that their grazing rights on the Monument had been
'grand-fathered' in. They had safe grazing for their cattle. As proof
of that, I was a passenger, Robert Hansen driving, with a huge bull,
destined for a career inseminating heifers in
CCC boys were lined up in Fred's home office,
buying hunting licenses. Clark Gable was among them.
Fred looked up, said, "You're too old to be a CCC.
What's your name?"
"I'm Clark Gable," confident that the entire world
would recognize the name.
"Well, who the hell's Clark Gable?"
the
Gros Ventre area, beside me in the truck. Robert was a classmate of
mine in High School, youngest son of Pete Hansen, one of the most
vehement of the big ranchers, a leader in their pushing cattle onto
Monument land. His oldest son, who later became a Wyoming senator, and
Parthenia, his grown daughter, were equally defenders of their grazing
rights. Well, their grazing rights were protected and the cattle drive
met no resistance from the park rangers. So, meeting no opposition,
they drove their cattle back to the ranches and on the way they pulled
out their pistols and shot at ground squirrels ("chiselers" in Wyoming
language). Pistols are notorious for unreliability, except at close
range. I have no idea if any "chiselers" were hit, but a good time was
had by all, including Wallace Beery, and it wasn't long before the big
ranchers learned that their summer grazing rights were intact.
Aimer
Nelson was invited to the meeting at banker Buckenroth's modest house.
On the way home, he stopped at the Murie house to narrate what went on.
"Buck" was against the extension of the Park. He was on the phone,
getting more upset. He hung up and stepped on the tail of the house
cat, who went yowling off into another room. Aimer laughed at that; it
seemed to be an appropriate match for Buck's anger. All was not well at
the meeting. The Federal government was too lofty an opponent,
especially given the legal status of the President's power to create
National Monuments. Olaus laughed at the cat story too.
A
short time later, Aimer Nelson, Manager of the Elk Refuge, called Olaus
and asked if we could help transport three trumpeter swans to a wide
area of Flat Creek, on the refuge. The birds came from Montana. Once we
were on Refuge land, Aimer handed Olaus and me each a swan, swathed in
a burlap sack. I managed to grab the neck just behind the head. My
right arm took all the weight of the body. It was a big bird, as were
the two Aimer and Olaus carried. Fortunately the area of Flat Creek
Aimer had chosen for the release point was only a half mile away. I
managed to carry my Trumpeter that far. Without a word we three carried
the birds to the creek, took off the burlap bags, and released them. I
noticed, with wonder, how lightly they floated on the water. They were
calm, allowing us to stand there and observe them. We left them there
and walked back to Aimer's van.
Another
tale of Fred Deyo. This story was told to me as an example of the
childish nature of the inner school boy lurking in Fred's hidden
nature.
Having
installed Pearl, Fred's wife, on a gentle horse, Fred, on his way back
to his own mount, gave a powerful slap on Pearl's horse's left rump.
The horse, in spite of its being trained to gentleness, exploded.
Fortunately, Pearl had her boots firmly in the stirrups, and a good
horse woman, rode out her horse's momentary lapse. It was only a couple
of jumps; Pearl kept her seat in the saddle and her feet in the
stirrups. But why did Fred give in to the childish imp residing in his
nature? He surely didn't want Pearl's death on the rocky ground; later,
he placed all the blame on the horse.
I
prefer that imp who emerged from time to time. He knew Pearl would keep
her seat in the saddle, but couldn't resist the impulse for some fun.
I had had my own intimate experience with Fred's little imp and on that basis I rest my case.
Every
resident in Teton County knew that "Park Extension" meant the
enlargement of Teton Park to provide a foreground for the spectacular
Teton Range. One of the Rockefellers fell in love with the valley and
set up a funds outfit in Utah and hired Dick Winger, a valley resident,
to buy out cattle and dude ranches at a price most owners couldn't turn
down.
Year-by-year
Winger bought land. In those days Jackson's Hole was considered a cow
town, with a bare sprinkling of dude ranches. If the citizens of
Jackson's Hole could have noticed, they'd have lamented that Jackson
was turning quickly into a tourist town. There was still the rodeo, and
bars on the town square. But Jackson's Hole was becoming a flamboyant
ski center, like Sun Valley in Idaho and Aspen in Colorado. Only Spring
Gulch, in the southern part of the valley, continued the big ranch
traditions. Finally Winger finally notified Rockefeller that he had
accumulated enough land, with a few enclaves, for Rockefeller to make
a gift to the federal government.
Rockefeller
let FDR know that he could no longer afford the taxes on all that land
(Ho! Ho!). FDR took advantage of his power to create National
Monuments; he presented the Feds with the Jackson Hole National
Monument, and accepted the gift of land. Later, without much fanfare,
the land that Winger had so laboriously bought was merged with Teton
National Park, meeting in most places with the National Forest boundary
on the east and the slender line of lakes that fronted the Tetons on
the west.
After the war, I got a position as a "Ninety Day Wonder," a summer hire at the Monu-
Another
incident, please. CCC boys were lined up in Fred's home office, buying
hunting licenses. Clark Gable was among them. Fred looked up, said,
"You're too old to be a CCC. What's your name?"
"I'm Clark Gable," confident that the entire world would recognize the name.
"Well, who the hell's Clark Gable?"
This
was Fred's fault. He was one of the few grown men in the valley who
became bored when caught in a movie theatre. Aimer Nelson was another
man who didn't watch many movies. He preferred real incidents to
laugh at, and he found plenty of those.
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