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For Harry Aleson,
Life was Heaven & Home in Glen Canyon
By Ken Sleight
HARRY’S WEDDING AND THE BERT LOPER WHISKY
On
the river, Harry would often invite my groups and me to camp with him.
As we met on the river, he would often yell over and say, “Let’s camp
together tonight.” And we’d do it. I enjoyed his stories and he put up
with mine.
His
World War I injury plagued him unmercifully and I was concerned by his
bouts of intense pain. His days on the river were obviously numbered.
It was becoming more dif-fcult for him to go it alone. So I asked him
to join with me on some joint trips during this last river trip year in
Glen Canyon. He agreed.
Harry
made one stipulation in our agreement, however; we would travel in
separate boats—on camping he would take care of the cooking and mess
for the passengers he carried and I would do the same for mine. A
contrast indeed—he on one end of the sand bar and I on the other. He
cooked on a gas stove; I cooked over logs. He provided a table and
seating; my folks squatted or sat in the sand. He served his people
individually in courses at the table; I made mind dip out of the common
pot. He cleaned the dishes himself; I had my folks clean their own.
The
year 1962 was a momentous one. It was the year that Lt. Col. John H.
Glenn, Jr. orbited the earth three times and exclaimed, “Oh, that view
is tremendous.” It was the year that Bill Wells, the Flying Bishop of
Hanksville, turned up missing over the Dirty Devil River as he was
checking on his cattle grazing in the canyon below. When his prop few
off, he was forced down onto a sand bar.
It
was the last year to run the Colorado River through Glen Canyon before
the waters began backing up behind the Glen Canyon dam. I scheduled
some 16 trips in the Canyon that year. My brochures read, “Soon this
Glen Canyon region will be covered with water and the deep canyons will
be no more.”
In
1962, Harry Aleson, Moki-Mac Ellingson, Georgie White, Kenny Ross, Don
Harris, and other river runners were active in running the canyon
rivers. Each guide had his or her own character. One character in
particular was Harry Aleson. Then 63 years old, this
Iowa native of Nordic heritage had accomplished much during his river lifetime.
Harry
Aleson was colorful, imaginative, and remarkable. He was an unusual
boatman, an inquisitive scholar, and pleasant to be around. He was
egocentric and a showman, and he had a strange delightfulness about
him.
He had a varied history.
In
March 1918, he enlisted in the Aviation Section of the U.S. Army Signal
Corps and was sent to France for training. While training, his plane
went down and the toxic fumes and gas played havoc with his stomach.
Chronic and perpetual stomach problems necessitated the removal of
much of his stomach, and he required frequent visits to veteran
hospitals. He was able to secure a full disability pension.
During
the Depression years, Harry worked for various geophysical exploration
frms in the southwest. During this time, he discovered the Colorado
River and began boating on Lake Mead. Soon this led to trips upstream
on the Colorado into Grand Canyon.
Harry sought adventure.
He
and Georgie White swam the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon in
1945 for some 61 miles, and they repeated with an 81-mile swim the
following year. In 1945, he also made a fve-day upriver motorboat run
from Lee’s Ferry to Hite through Glen Canyon. He made several trips
down the Yukon and the Mackenzie Rivers, and he liked to hike long
distances, exploring new scenic areas and archeological sites.
Joining
up with Charles Larabee, he called his outft the Larabee and Aleson
Western River Tours. He purchased old surplus navy neoprene rafts, a
couple of motors and a few supplies, and he was in business.
His river career was further spurred on by his scholarly
But,
in spite of this awkward arrangement, we continued with our plans.
Trips were scheduled on Sept 2 and Sept 12 of 1962. We placed
advertisements in Randal Henderson’s Desert Magazine. We had a fair
response, and the trips went well.
Harry
had met attractive Dorothy Donaldson Keyes of Oceanside, California on
one of his river trips the previous year. It was one of those “one and
only” attractions. A romance developed and they decided to wed and
honeymoon in Glen Canyon.
Harry
called the coming two-week wedding trip his “Farewell Trip to Glen
Canyon.” Sept 30-Oct 13, 1962. Fare $300. He advertised the two-week
trip in Desert Magazine. He had a few takers and ended up with only a
small group.
Trip
members included Bering and Barbara Monroe of San Bernadino, California
and Edna Fridley of Brigham County, Utah. Dock Marston said he would
join if he could fnd transportation to the wedding site and be out of
the canyon soon after the wedding.
Harry
had told me of his plans. I told him I’d boat down, attend the wedding,
and take Dock out. I would also pick up Bill Wells, the fying bishop of
Hanksville, at Halls Crossing.
Harry
had also told me there would be a special surprise at the wedding.
Bert Loper’s whisky, which was had been lying under the seat of his
Dodge Power Wagon for years, would fnally be brought out.
One
must know the story to appreciate its full sig-nifcance. Back in 1949,
Harry made a momentous river journey through Grand Canyon with Bert
Loper and other noted river people. During that trip Bert was swept
pursuits.
He liked doing research and assembling notes on the history of the
canyons. As part of his research, he exchanged many letters with Otis
“Dock” Marson, a noted self-appointed and maverick river historian.
As
is common with many river runners, his love for the river cost him his
marriage. He and his wife separated in 1940 after 12 years of marriage.
Harry had set up house alone in a tent at Quartermaster Canyon.
from
his boat and became lost to the river. On recovering the boat, Harry
found a bottle of Seagrams 7, which he then placed under the seat of
his Power Wagon for safe keeping. When I once asked him when he planned
to open it, Harry told me it would be on a very special occasion.
Surely, I expected to be invited to such an occasion.
The
wedding party had been on the river for a week when October 6 arrived.
I put on at Hite on October 6. My driver would pick me up at trip’s end
at Cane Creek. I had two 10
Harry Aleson was colorful, imaginative, and remarkable. He was an unusual boatman, an inquisitive scholar,
and pleasant to be around.
He was egocentric and a showman,
and he had a strange delightfulness about him.
HP
motors (one a spare) with me on my own raft, as I needed motor-power to
hurry Dock out of the canyon when I met him. But, for the present, I
wasn’t hurrying. I rowed over to the left bank of the Colorado and
walked up to Woody Edgel’s cabin in White Canyon. My friend Woody was
the legendary operator of a contraption called the Hite Ferry. After we
talked for some time and had a long nightcap, he drove me down to my
boat. He gave me a bottle of wine to present to the wedding party for
him and sent his best wishes.
Shortly
after midnight, I started down river. The stars were bright, the river
was lovely, and I rowed and drifted most of the night. On arriving at
Red Canyon, I pulled to the bank and walked up to Bert Loper’s old
cabin to stretch my legs. The place looked most
Harry
made a number of trips in the Glen and Escalante canyon area in search
of Everett Ruess, a young lad who disappeared in the canyons in
1934.Through Harry, I had the privilege of coming to know the Ruess
family. Harry had earlier taken Everett’s mother, Stella, into Davis
Gulch. Later, I took Everett’s brother, Waldo, there too.
Interestingly,
Edward Abbey had once inquired of Harry about a job as a boatman.
Abbey, in his letter, described himself as “a tolerable camp cook, an
excellent dishwasher, a fair First Aider, [knowledgeable…] about
geology, biology, and Major Powell, and can even play the harmonica.”
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