Fifty-Seven times Around the Track
Michael Brohm And the run for the roses
The
weatherman had predicted the wettest Kentucky Derby since 1918. Five
inches of rain was possible. But, as the twenty horses made their way
onto the track for the 136th running, sunshine burst through the clouds
like light through a prism. As the crowd of 155,000 rose to their feet
to sing “Oh, the Sun Shines Bright on my Old Kentucky Home”, the sun
did its part. It was beautiful.
The
Derby on May 1st was my 57th Derby. In Louisville, Derby Day is as much
a part of the local calendar as Christmas. Children are conceived on
this frst Saturday in May. Dogs are lost. Cats are found. It marks the
day that gardening can begin, without the threat of frost. The “before
Derby” or “after Derby” line of demarcation is well established.
I
recall Derby Day as a child, growing up in the West End of Louisville.
The neighborhood was a grid of small frame houses packed with
churchgoing Catholic families with lots of kids. In preparation for
the day, lawns had been mowed, hedges trimmed, cars washed, porches
swept. Folding tables had been carted from the garage and covered with
freshly ironed tablecloths. Glass pitchers full of lemonade, iced tea
and Kool-Aid were brought from the kitchen.
The
adults were on the front porch with the newspaper spread out, post
positions and betting strategies being discussed. Copying from the
newspaper, I would carefully print the name of each horse on a small
strip of white paper, fold it and drop it into a coffee can. Proudly, I
would walk house to house where neighbors would drop a quarter into the
can and pull out their horse. I loved walking around with that can full
of quarters but didn’t like having to give the winner his money.
We
didn’t yet own a TV and would listen throughout the day to the
radio-WHAS 840... 50,000 watts, clear channel (Which now has sadly
succumbed to the ranting of Rush Limbaugh and Fox’s “news”.)
I
only went to the track on Derby Day a couple of times as a child. Even
then, Churchill Downs was a beautiful old relic. All freshly painted in
bright white and green, the layers of paint so thick it was like an
archeological dig. The shouting voices of the mint julep and racing
form vendors echoed off of the smoothly worn herringbone patterned
bricks. The smell was of bourbon, cigar, cologne, dirt and horse. I
held hands with my grandparents as we walked with the loud, excited
crowd through the tunnel under the track to the infeld. The infeld was
a beautiful green lawn, packed everywhere with people. An elderly
black couple sat on wooden folding chairs, the gentleman in a crisp
white linen suit and straw hat, the lady in a full dress, huge Sunday
hat, holding a red umbrella with little gold tassels. People were
drinking something out of brown paper bags. I had a coke. In the
distance I could hear the people in the grandstand, nestled between the
famous Twin Spires, making the low, happy murmur of money and privilege.
My
college was only a few blocks from the track. During the week before
the race a tent city would form in the sports felds on campus. Students
from all over the country came for the all night music, dancing, sex,
cheap beer, Boone’s Farm “wine” and as much illegal stuff as one could
ingest. It was the early 1970s. As early as the neurons could begin
fring on Derby morning, the tents and sleeping
bags were rolled up and the exodus to the track would begin.
The
streets around the track were flled with entrepreneurs for the day.
This was their payday. Once a year, unsuspecting crowds with pockets
full of cash would need their services. Front yards, side yards,
backyards... anyplace a car would ft, had been cleared to park cars.
Everyone had a sign advertising their parking... the price escalating
as you got closer to the track. If the deal was reached, the
entrepreneur would sit on the hood of the car directing the driver to
his special place. All manners of everything was for sale. You could
show up in your underwear and in a few short blocks be totally outftted
in Derby regalia.
Carrying
your own liquor into the track was not permitted. Therefore, all kinds
of thoughtful, mysterious ways had to be devised to get your stuff past
security. Hard liquor became the choice, especially clear liquors like
vodka and gin, with the occasional tequila. Loaves of bread were
hollowed out to hold a ffth. Bras were teamed with baggies to bring in
the goods. The bigger the bra, the bigger the payload, in more ways
than one. Coolers full of ice would become one huge martini, the liquor
poured directly in, later to be drunk directly from the cooler. I don’t
recall any olives or vermouth. A sad groan would come from the crowd at
the gate as someone’s liquor was discovered and thrown crashing to the
bottom of a dumpster. Others just stopped before going in and took care
of a day’s worth of drinking, right then and there. Neat.
After
college, and for the next 25 Derbys or so, I went as a working
photojour-nalist. With a press pass around my neck, I could go anywhere.
How
about lunch with Charles Kuralt? (ok, in the same room). Want to see
the Queen of England? Let’s go fnd Muhammad Ali. Maybe a quick trip to
the infeld to see if the girls are topless yet. Oh, and let’s go see
Secretariat, I hear he’s pretty good and I haven’t photographed a horse
yet.
I had the best seat in the house, on a twelve foot ladder next to the winner’s circle. Beautiful.
Nowadays
I watch the race on big fat TV. I go to a raucous party with a
bartender and a band. This year I wore a yellow plaid thrift store
sports coat and my grandmother’s straw hat with a horse on top. We
still do a version of the coffee can bookie, only now it’s tallied on
an iPad. I still get a truly wonderful feeling, as all Kentuckians must
do, when the horses make it to the track and we all stand and sing
Stephen Foster’s ode to beauty, My Old Kentucky Home.
There
are few events in the world that draw such a wide cross section of
humanity as the Derby. It’s Hollywood, Nascar, NFL, Nashville, LA,
NYC, Rio, poor white trash, hip-hop, and London all pushed cheek by
jowl with Madge and Ed from Peoria. Without sounding all chamber of
commerce, this is an event that you should come see once in your
lifetime. Where else can you wear a pink seersucker suit and feel good
about it?
Michael Brohm mbrohm@insightbb.com
Also visit Michael’s Perm, Russia site: http://www.blurb.com/books/1345101
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