Canyon Country Zephyr page 2

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it to my favorite author. Of course, Abbey didn't live there as he'd claimed—he'd never even been there. Still my passion for Glen Canyon stayed red hot.

But one day, more than a decade ago, I was ranting about dam removal to an environmentalist pal of mine (an attorney of course) and I noticed a certain lack of enthusiasm on his part.

I said, "What's wrong with you? Don't you want to see Glen Canyon restored?"

He smiled sadly and replied, "It won't be the same."

ly was, as Eliot Porter later said, "The Place No One Knew." It was full of history, going all the way back to the Anasazi. The Glen was inhabited by just a handful of hermits and oddballs and explored by a strange mix of cowboys and prospectors and river runners. The legendary Bert Loper lived down there, in his old cabin that he called The Hermitage. Art Chaffin ran the ferry at Hite. The place was full of ghosts.

The men and women who had stumbled upon Glen Canyon in the 1940s and '50s, who really found religion of sorts here, were like an exclusive congregation. Their names, like Glen Canyon itself, are the stuff of legend. Glen Canyon will always be inextricably linked to the lucky few like Ken Sleight and Katie Lee and Harry Aleson and Moci Mac and Doc Mar-ston. How much did this place mean to them? Watch Ken and Katie choke back tears a half century after the Glen's demise. The loss runs deep.

"All that's gone," my friend said. "You can drain the reservoir but you can't bring back the way it felt. That's gone. All of it."

He looked at me and said, "If they ever drain the lake, it'll be a ZOO down there."

WATCHING LAKE POWELL GO UP & DOWN.

I drove past Glen Canyon Dam last week, on my way to visit friends in Springdale. It hasn't changed much since my last visit, or my first for that matter; it's still the biggest chunk of concrete I've ever laid eyes upon and it still floods one of the most beautiful sections of the Colorado River—Glen Canyon.

Of course, I've never really seen Glen Canyon in its pristine state. When the dam's diversion gates closed in 1963, I was still a kid in Kentucky, oblivious to these kinds of devastating man-made disasters.

Oh to be that innocent again!

My introduction to Lake Powell and its consequences came to me via an aunt I barely knew. Bertha Gunterman was a frail but feisty retired editor for Random House, living in New York, when she got wind of my interest in the West. She began sending me clippings from magazines about The Dam and the effect it was having both downstream in the Grand Canyon and, of course, the utter destruction by drowning upstream.

Early on, it had become apparent that this dam was a bad idea. For example, water released from the bottom of Glen Canyon Dam is cold—very cold—and consequently, it killed most of the native aquatic life in the Grand Canyon. They've since stocked the river with trout, which is wonderful if you want to imagine you're fishing an alpine stream.

The dam had been built to "save" water for the Lower Basin states of the Colorado River Compact, but evaporation and bank storage was diverting millions of gallons of water away from the reservoir. That's what happens when you build a reservoir in...the DESERT! The politicians could just as easily have moved the measuring point to Hoover Dam, 300 miles downstream, but that would have made too much sense and saved too much money. So the Bureau of Reclamation built another dam.

Still, when the drought in the early 2000s pulled Lake Powell's elevation down by 150 feet, I was anxious to see what the re-exposed parts of Glen Canyon would look like. Abbey had always insisted that Glen Canyon was not gone, that it was simply in "liquid storage," waiting to be restored and rejuvenated.

In March 2005, the reservoir fell to a level that, if my friend Rich Ingebretsen's calculations were correct, meant that one of the canyon's most iconic natural features, Cathedral-in-the-Desert, was completely out of the water. Ingebretsen is the president and founder of the Glen Canyon Institute and is probably more dedicated than anyone to its restoration.

We'd seen the photos of this extraordinary side canyon, with its tapestried walls and hanging gardens and its fluted waterfall. What would it look like 42 years after it went under? Would it have retained its splendor after all these years? And would it feel the same? Ingebretsen and I wanted to find out.

To add some irony (or hypocrisy?) to our quest, we rented a speedboat to travel the 30 miles down lake from Bullfrog Marina—the very motorized contraption that we both claim to loathe. But we forgot about our contradictions when we found the Cathedral looking almost exactly as it had been portrayed in the old photos. Even small rocks on the ledges above the

In my twenties, I became obsessed with The Dam and Glen Canyon. After my move to Utah, I made frequent trips to the reservoir and to Glen Canyon's above-water remnants. I discovered Ed Abbey and read The Monkey Wrench Gang about 200 times. I dreamed of "the precision earthquake" that Abbey's Seldom Seen prayed for. I drew a cartoon of The Dam with a gaping hole in its concrete facade and drove all the way to the remote Wolf Hole, Arizona to present

It was true that the Glen Canyon Story went beyond the physical resource—there was a romance to it that elicited visions of a Desert Xanadu. Tucked away in this remote, unknown corner of the Southwest was an entire canyon system, almost 200 miles in length. It was one of the best kept secrets in America. It tru-

www. cany oncountryzephyr. com cczephyr@gmail.com

moabzephyr@yahoo.com

Why are our days numbered and not, say, lettered?

— Woody Allen

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	cczephyr@gmail.com it to my favorite author. Of course, Abbey didn't live there as he'd claimed—he'd never even been there. Still my passion for Glen Canyon stayed red hot. But one day, more than a decade ago, I was ranting about dam removal to an environmentalist pal of mine (an attorney of course) and I noticed a certain lack of enthusiasm on his part. I said, "What's wrong with you? Don't you want to see Glen Canyon restored?" He smiled sadly and replied, "It won't be the same." ly was, as Eliot Porter later said, "The Place No One Knew." It was full of history, going all the way back to the Anasazi. The Glen was inhabited by just a handful of hermits and oddballs and explored by a strange mix of cowboys and prospectors and river runners. The legendary Bert Loper lived down there, in his old cabin that he called The Hermitage. Art Chaffin ran the ferry at Hite. The place was full of ghosts. The men and women who had stumbled upon Glen Canyon in the 1940s and '50s, who really found religion of sorts here, were like an exclusive congregation. Their names, like Glen Canyon itself, are the stuff of legend. Glen Canyon will always be inextricably linked to the lucky few like Ken Sleight and Katie Lee and Harry Aleson and Moci Mac and Doc Mar-ston. How much did this place mean to them? Watch Ken and Katie choke back tears a half century after the Glen's demise. The loss runs deep. "All that's gone," my friend said. "You can drain the reservoir but you can't bring back the way it felt. That's gone. All of it." He looked at me and said, "If they ever drain the lake, it'll be a ZOO down there." WATCHING LAKE POWELL GO UP & DOWN. I drove past Glen Canyon Dam last week, on my way to visit friends in Springdale. It hasn't changed much since my last visit, or my first for that matter; it's still the biggest chunk of concrete I've ever laid eyes upon and it still floods one of the most beautiful sections of the Colorado River—Glen Canyon. Of course, I've never really seen Glen Canyon in its pristine state. When the dam's diversion gates closed in 1963, I was still a kid in Kentucky, oblivious to these kinds of devastating man-made disasters. Oh to be that innocent again! My introduction to Lake Powell and its consequences came to me via an aunt I barely knew. Bertha Gunterman was a frail but feisty retired editor for Random House, living in New York, when she got wind of my interest in the West. She began sending me clippings from magazines about The Dam and the effect it was having both downstream in the Grand Canyon and, of course, the utter destruction by drowning upstream. Early on, it had become apparent that this dam was a bad idea. For example, water released from the bottom of Glen Canyon Dam is cold—very cold—and consequently, it killed most of the native aquatic life in the Grand Canyon. They've since stocked the river with trout, which is wonderful if you want to imagine you're fishing an alpine stream. The dam had been built to "save" water for the Lower Basin states of the Colorado River Compact, but evaporation and bank storage was diverting millions of gallons of water away from the reservoir. That's what happens when you build a reservoir in...the DESERT! The politicians could just as easily have moved the measuring point to Hoover Dam, 300 miles downstream, but that would have made too much sense and saved too much money. So the Bureau of Reclamation built another dam. Still, when the drought in the early 2000s pulled Lake Powell's elevation down by 150 feet, I was anxious to see what the re-exposed parts of Glen Canyon would look like. Abbey had always insisted that Glen Canyon was not gone, that it was simply in "liquid storage," waiting to be restored and rejuvenated. In March 2005, the reservoir fell to a level that, if my friend Rich Ingebretsen's calculations were correct, meant that one of the canyon's most iconic natural features, Cathedral-in-the-Desert, was completely out of the water. Ingebretsen is the president and founder of the Glen Canyon Institute and is probably more dedicated than anyone to its restoration. We'd seen the photos of this extraordinary side canyon, with its tapestried walls and hanging gardens and its fluted waterfall. What would it look like 42 years after it went under? Would it have retained its splendor after all these years? And would it feel the same? Ingebretsen and I wanted to find out. To add some irony (or hypocrisy?) to our quest, we rented a speedboat to travel the 30 miles down lake from Bullfrog Marina—the very motorized contraption that we both claim to loathe. But we forgot about our contradictions when we found the Cathedral looking almost exactly as it had been portrayed in the old photos. Even small rocks on the ledges above the In my twenties, I became obsessed with The Dam and Glen Canyon. After my move to Utah, I made frequent trips to the reservoir and to Glen Canyon's above-water remnants. I discovered Ed Abbey and read The Monkey Wrench Gang about 200 times. I dreamed of "the precision earthquake" that Abbey's Seldom Seen prayed for. I drew a cartoon of The Dam with a gaping hole in its concrete facade and drove all the way to the remote Wolf Hole, Arizona to present It was true that the Glen Canyon Story went beyond the physical resource—there was a romance to it that elicited visions of a Desert Xanadu. Tucked away in this remote, unknown corner of the Southwest was an entire canyon system, almost 200 miles in length. It was one of the best kept secrets in America. It tru- www. cany oncountryzephyr. com cczephyr@gmail.com moabzephyr@yahoo.com Why are our days numbered and not, say, lettered? — Woody Allen

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