Such history as my family has is the history of its life here. All
that any of us may know of ourselves is to be known in relation to
this place.
- Wendell Berry
I used to live in Wayne County, southern Utah, because cliffs of
red Wingate sandstone form an enormous barricade between Thousand
Lakes Mountain and Capitol Reef National Park. I used to live there
so I could watch Capitol Dome and the other thousand-foot bulges
of Navajo sandstone collect a dusting of May snow. I used to live
there because I could camp at 11,600-foot Bluebell Knoll, the highest
point on Boulder Mountain, and because at the mountain’s foot
are the Bicknell Bottoms, a lush marsh where mallards and sandhill
cranes scavenge the Fremont River for food.
I used to live in Wayne County for the beauty of the place, but
at the end of my three years there, I quit stopping at Larb Hollow
and Hogan’s Pass, scenic turnouts that provide a view of five
thousand square miles of mostly uninhabited desert, all the way to
the LaSal mountain range. In a flash I realized I had become greedy.
Every time I stopped to gaze at the colored desert my eyes tried
to sop it up, all for myself. The day I quit trying to make the land
mine and mine only I realized that even a place as beautiful as Wayne
County could stand one less stranger looking at it with an agenda.
With only 2,400 people in a county of that many square miles, Wayne
County natives feel firmly rooted in place. Towns are small and scattered,
so everyone is Wayne County, and that is how people locate themselves
in conversation, even among other Utahns. Wayne County is home in
the utmost sense to most of these people - descendants of Mormon
handcart pioneers who pushed gigantic wooden wheelbarrows across
1,300 miles of plains from Nauvoo, Missouri, to the Utah territory.
In 1875, Hugh McClellan and his family tried to subdue the rocky
red-dust fields for ranching, and from these first settlers grew
a breed as tough and stark as the desert itself. The last family
to buy a bailer was still gathering hay with an elevator behind a
horse-pulled wagon in 1970, the kids alternately driving the team
and tromping hay in the wagon. And other kids eight or ten years
old tended sheep camp on Boulder Mountain by themselves, staying
out among bears and elk.
I wanted to fit in among the locals, and had many friends, but I
couldn’t fool myself. I come from a different clan, Utahns
a hundred and twenty miles north in Carbon County. We are descended
from Italian, Greek, Mexican, Japanese, and Slovenian immigrants,
and have relatively few Mormons among us. I’m proud of my people,
of my own county, and I had to go home.
Here in Carbon County, my son represents the fifth generation of
my family. My cousins - Pinarelli, Andreini, Scavo, Vea, Marasco,
and Pero - all live within five miles of the coal mines and farms
our great-grandfathers and great-grandmothers helped create. We have
one and only one other town on all the earth that is ours: San Giovanni
en Fiore, in the mountains of Calabria, Italy. A parallel branch
of the family lives there to this day, descendants of one brother
who did not come west.
Few Americans today have such a profound experience of home, a generations-old
place they must return to. Those of us who have that experience want
our children to have it as well. We want to offer them lives in hometowns
that are still connected to history, tradition, and land. We want
our children to feel, always, that of all the places in the world,
they belong here the most.
Outsiders are slowly resettling Wayne County, like most of Southern
Utah, because it is beautiful. The new group of settlers reveres
Wayne County’s landscape, but often treats natives of the place
with spite. Locals are labeled "hicks" and "rednecks." Bumper
stickers proclaim a desire to "Protect Wild Utah" as wilderness
when that would deliver a powerful blow to local business and recreation.
This is the culture of the New West, that is, the culture of Boulder
and Santa Fe. The original culture of Wayne County is at risk of
disappearing.
Folks who move to rural towns too often think that the very life
of the rural place - the lives of the farmers, ranchers, loggers,
and coal miners - is backward, even wrong. Writer Wendell Berry experienced
this prejudice when he left a teaching position at New York University
to return home to Kentucky. "There was the assumption," he
writes, "that the life of the metropolis is the experience,
the modern experience, and that the life of the rural places...is
not only irrelevant to our time, but archaic as well because it is
unknown or unconsidered by the people who really matter - that is,
the urban intellectuals."
With the resettlement of the west and the devaluation of the rural
person, I fear that the land we grew up on will be closed to our
children, and that our children’s rural heritage will be treated
as something savage, something they must leave behind. The west,
as happened when white men first came to this continent, will be
ready for resettlement by people who believe they know better than
we do how to live on land with which we are intimate.
We rural westerners are intimate with the land, but do not call
ourselves environmentalists. We view the environmental movement as
a hostile takeover, an elitist approach to improve upon a west full
of rednecks. We are afraid of the movement and, understandably, hateful
toward it.
But we are lying to and marginalizing ourselves if we don’t
promote rural people as environmentalists in some sense. The environmental
movement is well funded, media-fed, and internationally popular.
Its holds the place of religion among its believers and is as rooted
in the present human consciousness as was the doctrine of Manifest
Destiny or the fever of the Industrial Revolution. We as the people
opposed to its idealistic principles seem, in the larger community,
heretical and dangerous.
Embracing our part of the environmental movement might change the
way the world perceives us and the way it perceives conservation.
We have to end our stand as the enemy and make ourselves known as
individuals. We have to open a dialogue with the people who move
into our towns. Our organizations have to get organized, communicate
professionally and eloquently, and get our personal stories of loss,
struggle, and love for the land into the media. Knowing that our
goal is to preserve a threatened culture and safeguard land and tradition
as essential parts of our humanity and our natural environment might
diminish popular support for the no-compromise stand of the environmental
protection groups.
Our unique viewpoint should be our plea: we have a sense of balance.
We don’t want to save the wilderness at the cost of the people
who helped raise us. We don’t want to save the human heritage
at the cost of the places we love best. So we are compelled to think
deeply, to consider everything in our plans. And, because we are
the offspring of the places themselves, we want to create or maintain
economic opportunities and a sense of rural pride so our children
can enjoy life here in the future.
The place I know best is not beautiful. Few tourists come to gaze
at our Mancos shale, sagebrush, and snakebroom. The mountains are
a dull gray, flecked with the most subtle yellows and greens. It
is a landscape I learned to love because most of my memories were
created in its folds.
Helper is vital to me because it is the seat of everything I know
and everything I can learn about myself. I need this place. I say
this on behalf of every family member who lives here. And I say the
same thing on behalf of the families of Wayne County: Behunin and
Blackburn, Chappell, Ellett, Brown, Brian, Torgersen and Torgerson.
They need their place, too.
Bianca Dumas lives and writes in Helper, Utah.