Having just arrived in Salt Lake City from the wilds of Orlando,
the four eco-naturists, err uh, eco-terrorists, uh, eco-something
wannabees stopped at the nearest Utah State Liquor Store to stock
up for the week. They were headed to their favorite part of the world,
southern Utah, roughly anywhere south of I-70.
Anticipation doesn’t adequately describe the feelings they
shared. This was the fourth trip to the area within three years,
but this trip was to be special. Required reading prior to the journey
was anything written by Ed Abbey, but especially The Monkey Wrench
Gang and Hayduke Lives! They called it their pilgrimage, which they
loosely defined as "trying their damnedest to make Ed proud."
After stocking up, they headed the rented SUV southeast, toward
Moab. It was a long day of travel, a cross-country two-legged flight,
followed by the six-pack and a half drive. Of course they stopped
along the way and drank the beer, since they didn’t believe
in drinking and driving. Knowing the liquor laws of Utah, it was
probably illegal to even consume it, but that was their plan. Their
destination: Green River, UT, home of Ray’s Tavern and, along
with at least one town in every state, the self-declared "Watermelon
Capitol of the World" Annual Parade. It was just their luck,
stuck in a traffic jam in downtown Green River.
After an evening of Ray’s burgers, beer and several games
of pool, early in the morning they headed off to hike into Horseshoe
Canyon. Little did they know, the fact they actually made the effort
to get to Horseshoe Canyon and experience The Great Gallery, may
have saved them from certain death at the hands of Ed’s good
friend and cohort, Seldom Seen Smith. Even on a Saturday, the canyon
wasn’t crowded, but it probably never is. It’s a long
drive over rough roads just to get to the trailhead. The recent rains
made travel even more difficult; the road now consisting of muddy
ruts and long stretches of standing water. The total visitor count
that day was nine, not counting J. R., the SCA volunteer ranger (they
called him a "Bush-Man"…… the only new "employees" our
Park Service can afford). The count consisted of the four Floridians,
two other couples from Arizona and one straggler that had just arrived
and started the hike at 4:30 P.M., when all of the others were coming
out. He’s probably still in there, having joined the rock art
figure "Holy Ghost" in The Great Gallery. Beginning the
hike that late, he definitely deserved the chance.
The next adventure was the one that the four had been looking forward
to and anticipating the most. Although hikes were planned in Arches
National Park’’s Fiery Furnace and Primitive Loop, as
well as Big Spring/Elephant Canyon in Canyonlands National Park,
nothing could compare to a trail ride with Seldom Seen Smith. Seldom
may not have shared their sentiment.
A small flash flood had made it nearly impossible to reach their
rented house, hidden in a beautiful red rock canyon, south of Moab.
Arriving after dark, the full moon helped light the way. It seemed
that Ed’s mystical horse, Moon Eye, was there, hiding behind
every shadowed turn.
Feeling closer to Ed, they settled in to an evening of poker and
beverages. Later that night, they were awakened by a thunderstorm,
accompanied by a cold wind. When they got up early the next morning,
Mt Peale was shining white, having received the first snowfall of
the season. It was a brilliant beginning to the event planned for
this day, a trail ride at Pack Creek Ranch with none other than Seldom
Seen Smith himself.
Driving to Pack Creek Ranch early that morning, they headed up the
road, directly into the rising sun. Blinded by the bright light,
it was hard enough to see the road, let alone see a sign. They had
been told to go to the office, but no signs for "Office" were
visible. As they slowly drove up the drive, they finally saw a sign
that said "Trail Rides". Knowing they were there to do
just that, they assumed this must be the place. As they turned the
SUV left into the corral area, they were met with a shout from someone
that appeared to be a ranch hand. He yelled, "DIDN’’T
THEY TELL YOU TO GO THE OFFICE?" The driver’’s immediate
thought was, Yeh, but if the cheap son of a bitch that owns the place
put up a sign that said "Office" we would have gone there.
Deciding that might not be a good way to start the morning, the driver
replied, "Sorry, we didn’’t see the sign".
The man replied, "Well, go to the office first". The driver
mumbled an "OK" and proceeded to turn the vehicle around
and do as he was told.
Immediately, the other three in the car yelled, "LOOK OUT!" In
trying to turn around, they had come within an inch of running over
the wooden steps that were used to help the tourists mount the horses.
They were certain that, like everything else around, the steps were
probably something that had been there for years and carried special
meaning to Pack Creek Ranch.
By this time they had guessed that the "ranch hand’’ was
actually Seldom himself. On the short drive to the actual office,
they all agreed that driving over the old wooden steps would have
stopped their adventure in its tracks. The sight of an SUV, loaded
with "city slickers", smashing the wooden steps (probably
built with his own two hands), would have been too much for Seldom
to take. He would have either shot them on the spot or at the very
least banished them from the property and refused to take them on
the trail ride.
After checking in at the office, it was confirmed that Seldom, aka
Ken Sleight, was, in fact, waiting for them at the corral. They were
also advised to get down there right away, since Ken didn’t
like riders to be late. Sheepishly, they hurried to the corral, trying
to put their best foot forward. At this point, they didn’t
know how the meeting would go, but they were going to do their best
to get back on his good side.
Actually, the meeting went well. As they introduced themselves,
they wanted to impress Ken with their feelings and respect for the
area, people who lived there and, in particular, Ed Abbey. During
the conversation, it was relayed that all of them had read the Monkey
Wrench Gang and Hayduke Lives. Ken seemed more impressed that the
first Abbey book they read was Desert Solitaire and that it was actually
their favorite book that Ed had written.
However, it was when he was told that just yesterday they had hiked
into Horseshoe Canyon that Ken’s eyes lit up. There seemed
to be an acceptance of the four travelers at that moment and, perhaps,
a little respect for their sincerity about the issues facing this
beautiful area.
The rest of the morning was as good as expected. The time spent
introducing horse to rider and rider to horse, i.e., "Kimo you
get to ride Killer", and the trail ride, complete with humorous
stories, allowed them to get to know Ken better. By the end of the
morning, Ken laughed at them referring to themselves as "Jack
Presbyterians" as Ed had referred to Seldom Seen Smith as a "Jack
Mormon".
The four eco-wannabees are certain that Ken Sleight has "made
Ed Abbey proud", and hope that they did, too. If you haven’’t
experienced a trail ride with Ken Sleight at Pack Creek Ranch, find
the time to get there and do it. You may hear a "Sleightly" Exaggerated
Tale or two.