When Jim Stiles told me he was to devote some of this issue to Arches
National Park, I thought I’’d include some of my own
thoughts. So I’’ll reminisce a bit and then turn to the
need for future planning.
I became intrigued in Arches –– even before visiting
it –– after reading Dale Morgan’’s 1945 edition
of Utah, A Guide to the State. He told of the two thousand natural
sandstone arches, including the magnificent Delicate Arch. Here is
the greatest density of natural arches on earth. Indeed, he wrote
glowingly of the great variety of unique geological resources and
the redrock formations. Here were arches, balanced rocks, fins and
pinnacles. Here rock layers revealed millions of years of deposition,
faulting, erosion and other geologic events. He told of the striking
environment of contrasting colors and curious landforms that highlighted
the extraordinary features of the park. I longed to visit it.
On my first visit there in 1953, I had joined with a group of college
friends during spring break to search out these dazzlingly beautiful
canyons. We pretty much followed, I suppose, the first wagon and
auto dirt road into the Arches’’ area –– a
route named the Willow Springs trail. We drove to the Balanced Rock
area and the Windows section and then down to Park Avenue and hiked
therein. The present entrance road was still in the planning stage.
In 1981, while I still lived in Green River, I began my horse trip
concession activity in Arches after buying the Horsehead Pack Trip
horses and assets from rancher Pete Steele of Monticello. On one
of my favored trips, at the rim of Seven Mile canyon, we’’d
dismount and allow our horses free rein into the abrupt box canyon
as we all hiked down the rough cattle trail of cut steps and rock
walls. At the bottom we mused over an old hewn-out log-watering trough,
shades of the Old West. Again mounting, we rode past dripping springs
and huge cottonwood trees and then headed downstream along the sandy
bottom of Courthouse Wash.
After our evening rides in Courthouse, we enjoyed evening cookouts
near Abbey’’s old trailer site. Jane would have the small
campfire glowing and her sumptuous Dutch oven pot-roast supper ready
when we pulled in. As we ate we watched the colorful Arches sunset.
And particularly, I remember my solo rides and hikes into my own
secret and favorite places –– pools and hanging gardens,
canyons, caves, and arches. I remember our group rides down the old
horrid natural-gas path to the enchanting Lost Spring Canyon and
making camp at an old rancher line cabin. And the following days
we would explore its varied red rock canyons. It was especially pleasurable,
on one of the trips, in watching friend Tom Till taking pictures
of a gigantic arch in a narrow side canyon
And memories linger too of my trips down Salt Creek until the Park
Service introduced desert-bighorn sheep in that area. I chose to
cease operations there to give the sheep a chance to get established.
Many of us were concerned about the environment of Arches, we showed
up at a public hearing held in Dec 1967 at which the Park Service
proposed the establishment of designated wilderness in Arches that
would comprise 12, 742 acres. Most of us agreed that the Park Service
was on the right track. I remember speaking at the activist Earth
First! Rendezvous in Arches –– presenting Abbey’s
scribbled fighting words along with my own from the tailgate of Ken
Sanders’’ old battered up junky truck.
Those were the days that many of us sprawled about on the sands
and slick rock while watching outdoor musical concerts. Especially
do I remember Abbey’s and my impulsive visit with ranger friend
Jim Stiles –– at our banging on his trailer door late
one night and lingering for a couple or so hours over beer, chatting
about the whatever. Then on leaving Stiles’ ugly trailer of
sorts and his unexpected warm reception (Editor’s note: "Stiles’ UNEXPECTED
warm reception"???) of us, Ed and I chugged down to one of our
favorite sites and we camped on the slickrock under the night stars.
A sudden rain squall drenched us –– causing me to drag
my bedroll under his truck where I resided till dawn. And in the
morning we took an energizing and unforgettable jaunt out over the
rising and falling slick rock to view the breaking sun and the beautiful
canyons.
And on Abbey’s tragic death, many of his cherished friends
met at that same place to hold a memorable memorial to him - at which
a number of us expressed ourselves, the best we could, in remembering
him and his great contributions to the canyons and the environment.
Then at the ending of that great era, I regretfully pulled my guiding
operations out of Arches. It just wasn’t the same no more.
======
Now today, I worry about the future of Arches. I fear that it may
have already become a "sacrifice park." I suppose it was
inevitable –– because of the affinity between money and
politics. Arches today is being deluged with more traffic and always
more people. The extent to which Arches National Park should be accessible
to the public is central to the concerns of many of us. I understand
the laws and the declared purposes for establishing national parks.
Providing public access to Arches National Park is one of its central
purposes. But so is the protection of the Park’s unique natural
resources.
In 1916 Congress officially established an agency, the National
Park Service, to manage the nation’s parks. The Congress gave
the Park Service its strong directive:
"……shall promote and regulate the use of the Federal
areas known as national parks, monuments…… which purpose
is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and
the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same
in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for
the enjoyment of future generations."
Clear isn’t it? Years ago, local citizens spearheaded the
drive in support of National Monument status. One of them was Loren
L. (Bish) Taylor, editor and manager of Moab’s The Times Independent
and one of the most enthusiastic and successful boosters. Soon after,
President Herbert Hoover issued his executive proclamation of April
12, 1929, creating the National Monument. On this subject, Taylor
wrote in an editorial, that the touring public "……will
soon become known the world over for the unique scenic wonders it
contains. The Creation of the new national monument will prove a
big boost in exploiting the scenic resources of southeastern Utah." So
right Bish was. It did indeed exploit.
Now the Park Service must get its priorities in order. It’s
cleanly a matter of development vs. protection. It’s obvious
on which side the Park Service has recently taken. Observe the increased
new roads, parking areas, new-hardened trails, and a new tourist
center. "Build it and they will come." Many people feel
that access should be open for all people despite their recreational
preferences or physical abilities. To them, restrictions that limit
equal access clash with the mandate creating the parks. All Americans
- tourists, the handicapped, the elderly, rock climbers, hikers and
bikers - should be welcome in our parks, they reason, even if it
requires new roads, trails, and other developments.
Look at the pressures. I was sitting on the Grand County Travel
Council board in past years, and certain interests from Thompson
Springs brought to the board their proposal for the federal construction
of a paved highway that would access Arches from Interstate 70. They
reasoned that the construction of such a road would serve the needs
of the traveling tourist as well as further aid the local economy.
Horrors be to that idea.
However in spite of the fierce opposition, there are many persons
that would restrict this uncontrolled access. They cite crowding
on trails and traffic jams and the destruction of native vegetation.
Some of them advocate limits on the number of visitors in the park
during peak periods. Others would support a reservation system or
tourist quotas. Some would confine public access to designated portions
of the park to give the park a chance to cleanse and restore itself. –– believing
that the park has a natural healing ability. Arches ought to protect
those areas that still remain wild and beautiful. Many travelers
come, but many of them don’t know just how to visit it. Ed
Abbey has the answer in his advice to visitors in his book, Desert
Solitaire:
"In the first place you can’t see anything from a car;
you’ve got to get out of the goddamned contraption and walk,
better yet crawl, on hands and knees, over the sandstone and through
the thornbush and cactus. When traces of blood begin to mark your
trail you’ll see something, maybe. Probably not." And
then he added:
"In the second place most of what I write about in this book
is already gone or going under fast. This is not a travel guide but
an elegy. A memorial. You’re holding a tombstone in your hands."
Let me offer a few thoughts.
Let us not make Arches itself a memorial, a tombstone, a sacrifice
area. Areas of greater ecological vulnerability must be protected
with zoning that is more restrictive. This is a part of the plan
of yesteryear.
For a starter, we need to remove the campground.
There may be a few areas that would withstand present levels of
human use, but there are also other areas that could be easily spoiled.
Targeted protective and restoration management is critically needed.
I’m aware that park officials recognize that visitors have
a wide range of needs, desires, and expectations. How they are to
accommodate such diversity is the difficulty.
However, we just can’t meet all interests. We need to define
the desires of the tourists and the desired resource conditions –– to
know what facilities would or would not be allowed in order to protect
this natural environment. We need to look closely at the consequences
of past actions and begin a restoration process.
Under present growth patterns, I feel that it is inevitable that
many more people in the future will visit Arches. Nonetheless, the
park officials must in the future, at some point, limit the number
of people who visit it.
Limiting the number during the summer months would help solve over-crowding.
Especially, visitation needs to be controlled during peak periods
and holidays. To do this it may mean restricting personal vehicles
and then instituting a public bus transport system.
Park officials must concede that the park cannot accommodate an
endless number of visitors. It cannot even comfortably find room
for the current population without constructing new roads, parking
areas and other facilities.
Some areas need to be treated as wilderness areas, and in those
areas no roads and few trails should be permitted. We need to go
back and dust off past wilderness studies. In these reports, the
Park Service said that the sandstone formations "provide numerous
opportunities for solitude and removal from the activities of man.
Each proposed wilderness can be effectively managed for the perpetuation
of these values and the preservation of the scientific and outstanding
geologic features found therein."
The Coalition of Concerned National Park Service Retirees has just
issued a report, A Call to Action: Saving our National Park System
that calls for an extensive overhaul of many national parks over
the next 12 years. The group feels that actions are being undertaken
that diminishes the values and purposes for which the national parks
are established. I agree.
And the Red Rock Wilderness Group is calling for the protection
of wilderness values in federally administered areas outside the
park –– which the exploitation of such areas do in fact
have a damaging effect on the park’s very integrity.
We must now see that the National Park Service does indeed "……conserve
[the resources] and provide for the enjoyment of the same in such
manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment
of future generations."